#AceBookNews – May.12: Enter surfing’s secret garden and get ready for the ride of your life
William Finnegan’s book Barbarian Days is much more than tales of one foaming wall after another as he reveals there is no such thing as the perfect wave
Catch a wave, we were advised by the Beach Boys a long time ago, and you’re sitting on top of the world. In a song lasting a mere two minutes and five seconds, they captured a universe. William Finnegan makes the same story last through 447 pages, but Barbarian Days: A Surfing Life is much more than the description of one foaming wall of water after another. Although the author does, indeed, take the reader out with him time after time towards the wave-sets that roll endlessly towards the surfing beaches where he has spent a fair proportion of his 64 years, he makes good on the implicit promise that each ride will offer a different experience.
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